At exactly this time of year, many moons ago, I was working as a raspberry picker on the outskirts of Nelson. I lasted a week before chucking it in and heading to the bright lights of the city, which, to this day, remains one of my favourite places.
1. The food
I can only remember one place – the late Chez Eelco – from my more youthful visits, but now Nelson heaves with delicious options. Harbour Light Bistro on the coastal road south is tops.
Once the local grocery store, we had a great night there with pals, dining on whitebait and blue-nose cod as the sun set over the water. Kush Coffee in Church Street was warm and welcoming the next day, plus I bumped into the only other person I know in Nelson there.
While across the road, Bar Berlin looked like just the spot for a cocktail, but as it was the morning, I didn’t bother – mostly because it was closed.
2. The drinks
There are more wineries than you can poke a stick at in these parts and we had a lovely lunch at Waimea Estates in Hope, which is very close to town and, according to a local wine writer we got talking to, the best place for caféstyle food.
For the best platters, he recommended travelling to the beautiful Woollaston winery in Upper Moutere and, for pizzas, to Kahurangi Estate – their woodfired oven will be cranked up for all of January, but book ahead.
3. The other drinks
Nelson, where hops abound – although thankfully I never had to pick any – is also the nation’s craft-brewing capital, so we headed to the famous McCashin’s in Stoke. I’m not much of a beer drinker myself, but I did manage quite a delightful cider-tasting where, for $10, I got to sip on five different drinks, not all of them alcoholic, although naturally my favourite one was: the Rochdale Ginger Lime Cider – yum!
There’s actually a whole craft-beer trail that you can bike, hike or drive to, but probably not from. Or you can go to The Free House Pub in Collingwood Street and taste them in one spot – it used to be a church, so it’s practically a religious experience.
4. The shopping
This part of the country has long attracted the arty types, so has a vastly rich and colourful pottery, jewellery and ceramic side. You can see the work of 14 renowned potters at the wonderful South Street Gallery – I could hardly tear myself away.
In a strange twist, the Christchurch earthquake has proved a boon for potters as the beleaguered Cantabrians gradually replace smashed crockery. Just next door to the gallery is the most beautiful little French tea and perfume shop, Millefeuille.
And if you pop up to the cathedral and down the other side, you’ll find yourself at Tula & Niles, quite the best-curated collection of pre-loved and yet-to-be-loved clothes and accessories I’ve seen.
5. The beach
When I first went to Tahuna Beach, after the raspberry incident, there was little more than a KFC at the roundabout, but now there are shops and cafés and on the city side of the dunes, there’s a fun park with a waterslide, mini-golf and all the stuff kids on holiday love.
But the beach itself is still the king hit for me and one weekday morning on this latest trip, I went for a stroll and was delighted to see a fl ock of new mums with their babies playing in the shallow gentle water – it’s the local backyard swimming pool!