TV

TV chef Michael Van de Elzen’s joy after pain: ‘I’ve come out the other side’

From a health crisis to caring for the community, Mike’s done it all
Babiche Martens, Tony Nyberg

It’s a beautiful spring day when the Weekly sits down with Michael Van de Elzen at his Good From Scratch cooking school on his six-hectare farm in Muriwai, West Auckland. The conversation is accompanied by cows mooing and the melodious chatter of birdsong. Mike points out the twin lambs in the adjoining paddock that were born an hour ago. Seven-year-old German short-haired pointer Hector is also keen to be involved, happily trotting between Mike’s house and the neighbouring school to ensure he’s not being forgotten.

It’s an idyllic setting, and one that Mike and his wife Bee actually did build from scratch – and a project that inspired the name of both the school and his latest book, Good From Scratch.

But unlike the book’s recipes, which are simple and delicious, Mike’s life has been far from easy lately. Cyclone Gabrielle last February devastated huge swathes of Muriwai, taking with it houses, cars, businesses and lives.

“The cyclone was shocking,” says Mike, 50. “It was pretty scary. We had a lot of trees uprooted and the house shook, but we had no idea the hills were coming down just a short distance away.”

When police shut the area, Mike got cooking. “We started taking in food and cooking it. The local Fresh Choice gave us loads, as did Woop – they sent us meals for six weeks for people to collect. Bee distributed food to the locals, volunteers, police, firefighters – anyone who needed it – and I just cooked. A lot.”

Although much of Muriwai was cordoned off, Good from Scratch remained open and the farm became a community hub. People who had been displaced from their homes, those whose houses were damaged or destroyed, and others who wanted to help, used it as somewhere to be together.

Mike and wife Bee fed the Muriwai community in its hour of need.

“I was cooking whatever was easy to make for large numbers – spaghetti Bolognese, curries, that sort of thing,” says Mike. “Comfort food, really.”

But although the locals came, few others did. “That was hard for business as everyone was told Muriwai was closed, but we were open,” he says. Things are slowly getting back to normal in the region – but not for everyone. “A lot of people have left,” explains Mike sadly. “From our community of 2500, about 400 have gone. Some we hope will come back once they have somewhere to live, but it’s hard. The cooking school, and our monthly Farm Days and Supper Clubs aren’t the same without them.”

Despite the difficulties, Mike loves his busy garden- to-table lifestyle. “That’s the thing about a farm – there’s always something to do,” says Mike. “We have sheep, cows, chickens and sometimes a pig in summer.”

With family enjoying Good From Scratch meals.

Everything grown on the farm is edible and every inch of space utilised to grow fresh food. It’s a lot of work, but it’s what Mike and Bee always dreamed of. “I grew up on a farm, and I wanted Hazel, 12, and Ivy, 10, to have the same experience,” he says. “We’ve been through quite a lot in the nine years since we bought it – my best friend passed away, we lost Bee’s father, I snapped my ankle badly in a motocross accident and of course Covid happened. I was also diagnosed with throat cancer, and the radiation had a huge effect on my health and me personally. I wasn’t in a great space for a while.”

But with the help of his family, Mike is now thriving. Good From Scratch – his sixth cookbook – is a wonderful collection of some of the recipes Mike teaches.

“Recipes must be easy to understand. Some chefs write cookbooks for other chefs, not for the public. My first book was a bit like that. This time, I’m not trying to impress anyone – the ego has gone.

“This book is very unpretentious. It’s just a lot of good recipes. We know they work – everyone who comes to the school cooks them in front of me, so we learn pretty quickly if they are wrong!”

Mike and Ganesh are back with a new season of Eat Well for Less.

The recipes are tailored to the seasons. There’s also a bunch of simple sides, sauces and preserves ideas, as well as handy tips for when you have a glut of whatever is in season.

Mike is back on screen with Eat Well for Less, the series he co-hosts with restaurateur Ganesh Raj. He’s also gearing up for wedding season, as the farm is a popular spot for weddings and events. “There’s a lot going on!” he laughs.

“We’ve been through some tough times, but Bee and I still love each other, and the kids still want to hang out with us – most of the time! It’s been a long road, but we’ve come out the other side. I think we’ll be all good.”

Eat Well for Less screens Tuesdays at 7.30pm on TVNZ 1 and streams on TVNZ+.

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