I spent one day in the Greek capital a long time ago and didn’t care for it. This time, I went back with pals and didn’t want to leave.
1. The Acropolis
The remains of this ancient fortress set on a rocky outcrop above the city is the first stop for most tourists. Here’s a tip – if it’s summer, be there at 8 AM to beat the heat and the crowds. Not only will you be amazed by the majesty and historical wonder of this place, but the views of Athens from the coast to the mountains are sure to astound. Bits will always be covered in scaffolding – archaeological sites are a bummer that way – but it’s such a thrill imagining the citadel when it was brand new two-and-a-half millennia ago.
2. Acropolis Museum
Hard to believe the rock city itself can be beaten, but this new modern museum nestling beneath manages it. In fact, on TripAdvisor, it beats the very thing it was created to honour to the top visitors’ spot. Inside are many more amazing artefacts rescued from the site and on the top floor, the exact proportions of the Parthenon have been recreated, with various bits that have come directly from it to give you an idea of the scale. Better still, there’s a Lego model of the whole thing, which provides a surprisingly illuminating overview, plus a fabulous restaurant. Greek doughnuts are a must!
3. The hotel
I booked at the last minute, so the cheap deals were gone. Hence I decided to treat my hard-working husband to the Electra Palace Hotel. It gets top marks for location – nestled in the old town near the central point of Syntagma Square.
The real clincher was the small but perfectly formed rooftop swimming pool with commanding views of the Acropolis. If you’re in Athens for a short stay, you couldn’t do better, but I spotted another rooftop bar that I tracked down to the nearby Central Hotel. Rooms here are cheaper and it doesn’t have a pool, but the view might even be better.
4. The food
Greek food is probably my favourite in all the world. I could live on Greek salad, bread and spinach pie. Our standout meal was probably at Ithaki, the restaurant we spotted from Asteris Beach Club, which looks over a turquoise bay and was stunning in every way. But we also went twice to a little taverna with wobbly tables on a steep street beneath the Acropolis, which had sensational food. I don’t know what it’s called, but find the picture-postcard restaurant Scholarchio – very popular with tourists – and this place is directly opposite. Try the Volkan honey beer from Santorini. Yum!
5. The beach
I didn’t even know Athens had beaches, but boy, it does. A $40 taxi ride from the Acropolis and you can be relaxing on the sand and swimming in the crystal-clear cool waters of the Aegean at Vouliagmeni Beach. I discovered it on the hop-on, hop-off bus that goes to the “Athens Riviera” and paid $6 for access to the public beach, which included an umbrella and a lounger, although on a hot day, you have to get there early to claim them. Across the road, on the other side of the peninsula, you can pay a lot more for access to an upmarket experience at Asteris Beach Club, although I didn’t think the beach was as nice. Still, with all that culture at its heart and beautiful beaches so close and accessible, who needs the islands? Athens has it all.