It quickly becomes evident that eating breakfast was an incredibly foolish idea. My winter weekend getaway in Melbourne kicks off at the majestic Hopetoun Tea Rooms. Nestled in the heritage listed Block Arcade off Collins Street, this little gem dates back to 1891, when the entire site was bought for a meagre £18. The then small tea room was initially set up for the Victorian Ladies Work Association.
The tea rooms have maintained their glorious old-world charm, but now see around 400 customers coming through their doors each day. It means reservations are a must and even a take-away slice of cake will mean a lengthy wait. With such delicious and decadent fare to display, theirs is the most photographed window in Melbourne. But after three tiers piled high with everything from traditional scones to their signature pinwheels – not to mention a double serving of tea – I’ve got some serious walking to do.
Thankfully, Melbourne is the perfect walking city. Its main shopping precinct, Bourke Street Mall, is a mere 15-minute stroll away and houses big- name brands at department stores Myer and David Jones. The Australian flagship home of Swedish brand H&M has recently opened in the beautiful GPO building, and there’s plenty of small boutiques to have a nosy in too.
After an afternoon hitting the shops – and the plastic – I’ve worked up an appetite again. Come nightfall, I head to Cumulus Inc on Flinders Lane, a popular spot among the locals for a pre-theatre meal. The highly acclaimed eatery features dishes designed to share, and is well known for its charcuterie and oyster bar, but my choice – tuna tartare with green pea salad – is out of this world.
A brisk five-minute walk down the road is the Regent Theatre. After surviving a fire, flood and sitting in darkness for 20 years facing closure, it has been restored to its original beauty and has just as much character as the shows it plays home to. Whilst the spectacle of The Lion King is currently on stage, it will also be home to classics Sleeping Beauty, Swan Lake and Cats later this year.
Come Sunday morning, after pacing myself more wisely with a smaller breakfast, I join Maria Paoli from Evolving Success in the CBD for a coffee tour. If there’s something that Maria doesn’t know about coffee, it’s truly not worth knowing. A tiny, caffeine-driven powerhouse, she leads you to the best cups of coffee the city has to offer. We visit the sites of the city’s early Italian immigrants, who helped develop the industry, as well as experience the latest trends in coffee – single-origin beans and the art of micro-roasting – at hip new spots.
Maria takes you to places you’d find it difficult to discover. Following her down a deserted alley, it’s a delight when she pulls back an unassuming door to reveal a bustling café chocka with Sunday brunchers. Buoyed by a multitude of cups of coffee, Maria walks her tour-goers back to where they need to be, and is more than ready to suggest a spot for lunch. With the afternoon free – and a copious amount of caffeine in my system – it feels like Melbourne is my oyster.
Insider’s guide to…Melbourne
When to go: It’s hard to get past the buzz that surrounds Emirates Melbourne Cup Day – scheduled this year for November 3. However, Melbourne also makes for a magical winter city escape.
Getting there: Emirates flies a daily A380 service to Melbourne from Auckland. If you’re lucky enough to afford business class, you can even enjoy their on-board bar.
Best cup of coffee: Maria Paoli will give you plenty of options, but her stop at Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar will have you headed back for more. Visit evolvingsuccess.com.au for more information.
Best for relaxation: If all that shopping and exploring gets too much, head to the Crown Metropol for some R&R at Isika Spa.
To find out more, visit crownmetropol.com.au/isika.