Fabric
- 1.2m of 150cm wide fabric OR 1.5m of 120cm+ wide fabric.
Opt for silk, viscose, silky polyester or anything with a lovely drape. Keep in mind that the 150cm direction will run vertically on your body, so if your fabric is napped (which means it features a directional design), make sure you cut it so the design runs in the right direction.
Other supplies
- Matching thread
Tools
Sewing machine
Sharp size 70/10 machine needle
Scissors
Pins
Tape measure
Iron and ironing board
Cutting
Cut fabric into a 120cm x 150cm rectangle.
Cut the rectangle lengthwise down the middle to make two pieces measuring 60cm x 150cm (see diagram overleaf).
Fold each piece in half along the shoulder line (see diagram). Cut away the 15cm x 35cm corner sections, cutting through both layers of fabric at the same time. When unfolded, the pieces should look like the diagram.
Sewing
Centre back seam and front opening:
Place the two pieces right sides together and sew seam A (as shown on diagram) with a 2cm seam allowance.
Press seam open, continuing to press along each side of the front opening.
To neaten raw edges, tuck in 1cm of each seam allowance, including along front opening, and topstitch along the edge of the fold (stitching each side of the seam allowance to the back of the garment).
Underarm seam (french seam):
Lay kimono out with wrong sides together, folded along the shoulder line.
Sew seam B (see diagram) with a 6mm seam allowance. Clip into the corner of the seam allowance. Press seam to one side.
Repeat for seam C.
Turn kimono inside out.
Sew seams B and C again, this time with 1cm seam allowances. The raw edges are now enclosed. Press seams towards back.
Sleeve and body hems:
Press sleeve hem in 1cm, then another 1cm to hide raw edges. Topstitch along the edge of the fold.
Repeat for other sleeve and body hem.
Now make a kimono robe
To make a kimono robe, measure your required length from the ground (or from your desired hem position) up over your shoulder and back down again, adding 2cm at each end for the hem allowance. That will give you the length of fabric you will need to buy from a bolt that is at least 120cm wide.
For seams B and C, the 15cm horizontal seam will remain 40cm from the shoulder seam (this is the sleeve depth), but the 35cm vertical seam will be longer, extending all the way to the new hem. Otherwise sew as for the kimono jacket.
Hemming tips:
Try your kimono on before hemming it to check the length. If it’s too long, trim some length off, if it’s too short, you can lengthen it by sewing a panel of matching or contrasting fabric to the hem.
Press the hems before sewing the underarm seams (they are easier to press accurately at this stage of the process). Fold, press and then unfold the hems (leaving the creases). The hems must be unfolded when you sew the underarm seams.
Photos: Mike Rooke.
Hair and make-up by: Claudia Rodriguez.
Model: Sara Bunny.
