The drive up from Christchurch is a breeze. Head north for 90 minutes, take the Hanmer turn-off and traverse the Waiau Ferry Bridge, then alpine splendour suddenly fills the windscreen.
Views like this make you want to pitch tent. Better still, let Hanmer Glamping do it for you! Hosts Steve and Joanna have set a trio of beautifully appointed glamping pods on the border of a property that looks across the Hanmer Basin to the snow-capped peaks beyond the village.
Each cavernous “tent” blends in with the natural environment, and has its own garden and wood-fired hot tub. A relaxing soak before sunset amid a surge of native bird activity proved the perfect start to my getaway.
Sunrise was the next big event for this happy glamper. I watched the beautiful vista slowly reappear while nursing a proper coffee in bed with the heat pump on. Like most visitors to the village, I made a beeline for Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa. The huge pool complex remains a pillar of recreation in the town, while the classy spa has enhanced its offering for adults with the opening of Elemental by Hanmer Springs.
A very welcome reset
A 75-minute session convinced me of the benefits of contrast therapy. Super-attentive staff usher you between a sauna, steam room, snow room (with falling snow and ice underfoot) and a private geothermal pool with refreshments. The immersion in contrasting hot and cold environments works wonders for your skin, and gets you breathing more deeply and slowly.
I emerged with no tension in my shoulders and circulation at 100%. I also had the clarity of mind to request an hour-long Signature massage with coconut oil. With a spring in my step, I broke in a new pair of boots with a meander around Hanmer’s many eateries.
A taste of Hammper Springs
Dinner was at Tease, an Indian-fusion restaurant that makes the most of what’s in season, such as Nelson seared scallops with chorizo. As for mains, Tease specialises in hearty South Island staples, but also does an amazing Himalayan goat curry with goat’s cheese.
Brunch at Powerhouse the next day was another winning choice. A local institution, this café inhabits a century-old power station and the gabled matai ceiling is as mesmerising as the coffee.
From coffee to Conical Hill
Longtime owner Mary is also bursting with character. By the time my eggs Montréal with salmon arrived, I knew all about Mary’s love of horses and alpine adventuring – and her taste for good whiskey!
It was time, I figured, to change footwear and embrace nature. A zig-zag climb up Conical Hill was a great warm-up. You get panoramic views from the peak and
a chance to size up other walks that sprout across the landscape.
Into the wild
I descended to the township via a long, looping track carpeted with pine needles, taking in pristine streams and woodland, relishing the crisp air and tranquillity. Next came an excursion into Hanmer Forest Park to walk the Waterfall Track and triple my step count.
The next day, I hit the road early to follow the braided river all the way up to Lewis Pass and Springs Junction.
If you have wheels, this is a fantastic scenic drive of about two hours return. The drive from Hanmer to the Waipara Valley vineyards is just as comfortable. At Waipara Springs Winery, owners Andrew and Katie continue a family tradition by pouring their hearts into every vintage and praying that the weather gods comply. Andrew proudly serves tasting glasses with flowing commentary and great insights. He recalls everything clicking during the long, dry summer of 2024, resulting in thicker grape skins and a great vintage for the region.
White-wine aficionados will love their riesling and also the rosé, described as “the red wine drinker’s white wine”. I thought the pinot noir was a revelation.
Lunch was across the highway at the renowned Black Estate Winery, where more premium wines were paired with mouth-watering Akaroa salmon and beef tenderloin.
Ending on a high
By the time I returned to Hanmer, the poor town was being peppered with hail, but nothing could deter me from returning to the thermal pools that evening. I tried a different kind of contrast therapy by moving between hot sulphur pools and a cold plunge. The magical finale was a session in front of intense hydrotherapy jets as a flutter of snowflakes fell.
I might have rolled into Hanmer Springs feeling a bit worn down by winter, but I zipped back to the Big Smoke fully rejuvenated. What a contrast!
