Great things come in small packages and Napier is proof of that.
With a population of just over 60,000, the Hawke’s Bay city is a wonderland for visitors. My family went there for a long weekend and left enormously impressed by the number of interactive, family-focused activities on offer.
We flew from Auckland (thanks to Jetstar and their regional service) on Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Day and most of the locals seemed to be at the A & P Show, so we headed there.
The highlight for the children was a police tractor – not so good for hot pursuits, but great PR in a farming-based community like this. The shearing competition was fast-paced with expert commentators making wool coming off sheep as exciting as an Olympic 100m running race.
The Napier area is justifiably proud of its elegant vineyards and one of the most established is Clearview in Te Awanga. It also offers an abundance of rustic culinary goodness for lunch, much of it sourced from their sprawling organic garden.
Affable founder Tim Turvey gave us a guided tour of his vineyard, explaining all the elements required to make the finest boutique wines. It was bare paddocks when Tim first saw the property, but he had a vision of grapevines growing by the sea. It was a pleasure to see how his dream came true.
Alongside the vineyards, there are many great eateries in Napier city, and The Emporium Restaurant in the art deco Masonic Lodge Hotel is well worth a visit, both for the food and the amazing bar. It’s almost like a museum, but with a bustling, cosmopolitan groove.
The famous tractor and trailer tour to the Cape Kidnappers gannet colony is a must. I have memories of doing this excursion as a 12-year-old.
It has barely changed, but the trailers are more comfortable and there are more gannets. You bump along over rocks and around boulders, with frequent stops to identify geological oddities and nesting birds.
Wrap up warmly if you’re going, and there is walking required, so wear appropriate shoes.
Millions of dollars have been spent over the past decade building around 200km of cycle tracks in the wider Napier/Hastings area. These can take you inland, along the coast, through vineyards, wherever you want to pedal. Jenny Ryan from Takaro Trails guided us 27km along the Marine Parade, then out to Clive, Haumoana and eventually to Te Awanga.
A visit to the National Aquarium of NZ, which features five types of shark, is essential. You can even swim with them – and to prove our family’s heroism, we all have certificates!
A new venture that helps you feel better about your carbon footprint is also worth visiting.
It’s called Fresh Air Forests, established by the charming Colin and Wendy Pirie. You buy a tree, Colin takes you to a special conservation area to plant it, then you can watch it grow with GPS monitoring.
It’s a different, peaceful outing and you feel you have done something important.
At some point, visit the Faraday Centre, a fully hands-on museum. We all adored playing with relics from the past: early pinball machines, water pumps, home appliances we used to use, vacuum delivery systems, and early electrical inventions, such as Geissler tubes full of gas that turn different colours when charged.
The children could have stayed all day – in fact, we all could have stayed in Napier a lot longer.
An insider’s guide to… Napier
Best place for a healthy takeaway: Komida on Marine Parade is run by three lads who met at a gym and built a smart business based on clean, nutritional food. Go to komida.nz.
Best cycle tour:Takaro Trails. Jenny Ryan has been in travel for years, the last seven in Napier building her own business guiding recreational cyclists. Go to takarotrails.co.nz.
Best value: Gannet Beach Adventures takes four hours with a vintage tractor and trailer for transport to visit 20,000 nesting gannets and taking in stonking great views. Only $44 per adult and $24 for children. Go to gannets.com.
Best i-site: It’s on Marine Parade and the place to make bookings and collect information on local activities. Ask for Jane or Dawn – they are absolutely fantastic, very knowledgeable and passionate about the region.
Best Family Accommodation: Kennedy Park Resort, offering lodgings from large family two-bedroom villas to camp sites. Loads of outdoor play equipment for the kids. A five-minute drive into central Napier. Go to kennedypark.co.nz.
Best laugh: Hooters, a family-run vintage car business. Take a tour around the city in one of their original 1920s and 1930s American automobiles or their British classics. They show you things about Napier you would never know about otherwise. Recommended. Go to hooters-hire.co.nz.
Best tour to counter your carbon footprint: Fresh Air Forests. Go to freshairforests.co.nz.
