Real Life

Champion winemaker Natalie Christensen ‘Making wine is spiritual’

Our winning vintner has a magical mantra to get the best out of her grapes

She’s just taken out the coveted title of White Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine Challenge in London – the first woman from New Zealand to do so – but Natalie Christensen says if it wasn’t for a quarter-life crisis, she may never have found her calling.

Talking to the Weekly about her life and impressive career, the Yealands Estate chief winemaker explains she got her start after quitting her office job at 25 in a bid to find more purpose and meaning in life.

“I had decided I really wanted to be creating something, but wasn’t sure what that was,” recalls Natalie, now 42. “My brother was living in Marlborough and said, ‘Why don’t you come here, work a grape harvest, then go travelling to figure things out?'”

She was already a classically trained double-bass player and had studied music at Victoria University with the goal of becoming a film composer. She then added in a psychology degree, intending to become a music therapist, but ended up working in HR.

Arriving in Marlborough, Natalie expected to stay for one harvest, but while working in the lab for St Clair Family Estate analysing the grape juices, she fell in love with a career she had never considered before.

“I didn’t know any winemakers, then I moved to Marlborough and a whole world opened up to me,” enthuses Natalie, who after a three-month OE in Europe returned to try her hand at becoming a winemaker.

“I couldn’t believe it was a job. I loved the excitement of it – the whole year of grapes growing is a process that involves so many people to capture in a wine you can share with others.”

It’s a decision that has seen her cut her teeth at multiple local vineyards and travel the globe for international harvests in France’s famous Bordeaux region, Oregon in the US and an 18-month stint in Galicia, Spain.

“I didn’t speak any Spanish and was moving to this small, incredibly beautiful coastal town, where I was a very unusual being,” she reflects. “In small-village Spain, family is so important, and I was this young female on the other side of the world, very far away from her family, and the boss of an all-male team.

“There were magical moments, but others were incredibly lonely, so I decided I wanted to put my time and energy into the New Zealand industry.”

On her return in 2015, Natalie picked up a job with Yealands Estate in Seddon, where she’s now the chief winemaker.

“During harvest period, I spend a lot of time tasting fruit and making decisions about the perfect time to pick, monitoring the fermentation and converting the fruit juice into wine, then piecing together all the blends.”

Christchurch born-and-bred, Natalie thrives on creativity. She recently experimented with introducing her love of music and ongoing interest in music therapy to the winemaking process by playing an ancient Vedic mantra on repeat in the barrel hall as a pinot noir was ageing.

“I had been to India for three weeks learning meditation and thought, ‘What if I could play a mantra to the wine that brings about purity, unity and togetherness, that could work some magic?'” explains Natalie, who outside of work enjoys hiking and wellness practices, balanced out with cocktails and dining in the city.

Talking about her trip to India and innovative ideas, Natalie says, “It can be a well and truly fast-paced and stressful job, so I like to dabble in these things for my wellbeing and mental health. It helps me stop and take notice of what’s happening around me, and make deeper connections with people and the natural world.”

While it’s difficult to quantify the impact the rhythmic chanting had on the wine, Natalie is optimistic and proudly shares it won top pinot noir at an international show earlier this year.

Over the years, Yealands Estate has picked up an impressive array of awards, but being named White Winemaker of the Year in July was a special highlight.

Natalie has kept her feet on the ground since her big win. “It’s such a team effort,” she says.

Natalie is just the third Kiwi to win the award, which was last won by a local 15 years ago.

“I can be guilty of reaching one milestone and already thinking about the next, so I really want to take time to relax, enjoy the moment and see what unfolds next,” she says.

“The excitement and happiness of my team has been awesome. Even though I have been singled out for this, a lot of people are involved in creating the wines. It’s such a team effort.”

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