This tiny Tongan jewel, the picturesque Mounu Island in Vava’u, has captured my heart forever.
1. The journey
It had been a long day. We got up at sparrow’s to get an early flight from Auckland to Tongatapu in Tonga, then jumped on another flight to Vava’u in the kingdom’s northern islands. Waiting for us at the little airport was Allan Bowe, a wild-looking man with a silver beard who grabbed our bags and herded us towards a dusty bus. I would have been nervous except that a passing departing passenger stopped us to whisper, “Oh, boy, are you in for a treat.” After hand-cranking the bus into shuddery action, we set off for Vava’u’s main town, Neiafu. Arriving at the wharf at dusk, we climbed aboard Allan’s boat and, as the sun went down, began the bewitching half-hour trip through the most beautiful part of the world to our final destination.
2. The resort
Mounu Island covers just 2.4 hectares, with a sandy beach right around the outside, a suitably seaside open bar and restaurant, and just four fales (bungalows), each entirely private. Ours, number four, we found out later was nicknamed the “baby-making” fale, although the bigger number one is officially the honeymoon fale. The waves lap practically at your doorstep, the beds are comfortable, the showers hot and if the solar power doesn’t always provide light, who cares? You are in paradise. It doesn’t matter.
3. The whales
Allan and his wife Lyn came to Vava’u via Auckland and the far north nearly 20 years ago, and after getting up close and personal with a few whales, immediately saw the potential for bringing tourists to Vava’u to do the same. There are other operators here now, but the pioneering Allan runs two boats, one just for resort guests and one that leaves from Neiafu Harbour in town.
Actually, some days you don’t even need to wet your toes – you can sit on the deck of the resort and see dolphins and whales from there. We visited outside the season (roughly July to September), but I have to say, what we lost in whale watching, we gained in having this pristine, stunningly beautiful part of the world virtually to ourselves.
You get your own private paradise in one of Mounu Island Resort’s private fales
4. The rest
Allan and Lyn’s daughter Kirsty helps run the resort and is a Jill of all trades, turning out five-star meals, giving kite-boarding lessons if anyone’s keen and, at my insistence, even taking a yoga session on the sand at sunset. One afternoon, she took us to swim inside the light-filled Swallows Cave – crystal clear and alive with tropical fish – then spirited us away to a secret reef spot where our eyes all but fell out of our heads at the vibrant sea life thriving beneath our snorkels and flippers. We promised ourselves we’d kayak to a neighbouring island and perhaps have a go at stand-up paddle boarding, but reading under the coconut palms won out every time.
5. The family
On our last night, we gave Kirsty’s deputy Mata a pineapple we’d bought at the market and she whipped up two of the most delicious piña coladas I’ve ever tasted. We sat out on the deck with the Bowes till way after the sun went down, telling tales and swapping stories – be warned, it’s hard to beat some of theirs – and feeling privileged to be part of the Mounu Island Resort family.
This is what you come here for. You’ll find higher thread-count sheets and hairdryers elsewhere, but if you’re in the mood for a romantic getaway or a gang get-together with good food and a little Robinson Crusoe thrown in, look no further.
