Partying’s back on in Thailand after an intense period of mourning for the king, who died after 70 years of rule. But although this beautiful island is best known for its full and half-moon parties, there’s much more to it.
1. Full moon madness
I’ve never been to a full-moon party, but you can’t swing a cat in Thailand without hitting a group of excited 20-somethings on their way to this iconic monthly shindig on Koh Phangan’s Haad Rin Beach. We were there well before the king died and met some young travellers already the worse for wear. One poor Brit (a ginger, bless) was so sunburnt on his feet and legs that he could barely walk, let alone dance. Sunscreen, people!
2. Still waters
On the opposite side from the moon madness is Thong Nai Pan Noi, possibly the most beautiful water I’ve ever swum in – in Asia anyway. This stretch of stunning golden sand with its few seaside resorts and small settlement one street back is the sort of Thailand you dream of hanging out in. The flusher among us can stay in a private villa overlooking the beach and have their worries massaged away in a spa or take a cooking class. But there’s plenty of accommodation and eating options for the budget-conscious too. Around the corner, the secluded Bottle Beach can be reached only by boat. No fluoro paint and trance music here!
3. Buri Rasa Resort
We stayed at this family- and wallet-friendly resort right on the beach with lovely fresh rooms, a great location catching all the late sun and a delightful manager. Mr Boonwit greets every boat and seems to know all guests by name. The pool is small and mostly for the kids, but the sea is the drawcard here. Oh, and the food. Not only were the breakfasts a triumph, but the Ginger loved the “Aussie” beef and the ballsy red wine he used to wash it down – also recommended by Mr Boonwit. Also, how we laughed when we went for a walk and saw all our “smalls” hanging on a rack in the street outside the laundry we’d taken them to.
4. Getting there
Peaceful bliss comes at a price in that you have to fly first to the bigger busier island of Koh Samui, then get a boat to Koh Phangan. The good news is that the Buri Rasa people can pick you up from Koh Samui Airport and deliver you to their own private jetty and across to the resort. Or, like us, you might want to stay at their sister property right smack dab in the middle of Samui’s Chaweng Beach on the way. Swim in the pool or the warm ocean, hire a jet ski, go para-ponting, bar-hopping, mall-shopping or beach-clubbing, then leave that busy world behind and head to the peace and beauty of the “party island”.
