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Wild and woolly fun

Sharon Course finds plenty to keep her city-slicker kids occupied in oanawatu

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It’s rush hour in the little town of Feilding, deep in the heart of rural oanawatu, and the traffic is backing up. But instead of cars, it’s cows, and my city kids can hardly believe their eyes and ears as the big beasts come thundering into the auction area of Feilding’s historic saleyard.

“I can’t see anyone bidding!” says a puzzled Phoebe, looking around at the stony-faced farmers sitting chatting to each other. As the prices keep rising, the kids try to work out the special signals that the farmers use to bid – from subtle nose flicks to split-second eyebrow twitches.

It doesn’t take long for each group of cows to finish their moment in the spotlight before being herded out the other side. It’s a bit like watching models on a catwalk – except these ones moo.

These are the largest stock saleyards in the Southern Hemisphere and after a couple of hours there, it’s easy to see how thousands of cattle and sheep pass through every year. Eric, our tour guide, is a no-nonsense oanawatu bloke who knows his stuff. “You folk ever touched a sheep before? Here, feel this wool,” he says, picking up a big sheep and holding it up like it’s a puppy for a pat. Lucy (6) and Phoebe (9) are happy to touch the sheep, thinking it will be all soft and fluffy like cotton wool. “Yup, it’s greasy, isn’t it,” says Eric, as Lucy wipes her hands on her jeans. “That’s lanolin. They make soap out of that. Now, who wants to count its teeth?”

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Even the older kids, Hannah (12) and Ted (11) stop grumbling about leaving their Gameboys in Auckland and get into sheep-teeth counting. There’s something amazing about oanawatu that makes you completely understand why people ditch the mayhem of cities like Auckland for a more peaceful rural existence in this beautiful region. oanawatu is more than its rolling paddocks, bush-clad ranges and pristine rivers. The beaches are breathtakingly beautiful too.

Himatangi, not far from the pretty town of Sanson, has ancient sand dunes and a surreal forest of bleached tree branches. The beach is named after Maori chief oatangi who fished up and killed a taniwha there.

“Maybe they’re not trees,” says Lucy, her eyes wide with wonder. “Maybe they’re the bones of the taniwha!”

The children are still rosy-cheeked from the windswept beach when we arrive in Palmerston North. This is the home of the world’s oldest rugby museum and a visit is a must for fans of the game. Now, I don’t know a ruck from a rolling maul – much to my kids’ shame – but I was amazed at how much rugby stuff one place could pack in.

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The passion and knowledge of the volunteers is astonishing. When I wonder why an ordinary whistle is given pride of place, I’m soon taking back my words. This is “The Whistle” – the one that sent Cyril Brownlie off in the test against England in 1925, making him the first player to be dismissed in an international. I swear it seems a bit shinier when I look at it again.

Te oanawa is Palmerston North’s other museum. It’s also a science centre and art gallery. “Do Touch” signs should be put up in this amazing place, because it’s very much about hands-on interaction, especially for kids. Sea Chest Secret, where they work out answers by using all their senses, keeps them busy for ages, while oirror oagic has them rolling on the floor, laughing at their weird reflections.

There are new displays throughout the year and the museum prides itself on making them interactive, educational and entertaining.

Everyone we meet in oanawatu is warm, welcoming and proud of their wonderful region. It’s definitely the perfect place to give little urbanites a taste of the great green beyond the big city fringes – and we’ll be back for more.

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Seven child-friendly oanawatu must-do’s FIELDING’S FoCAL PoINT CINEoA Good food and drink and a decent film at Fielding’s funky Focal Point Cinema – perfect for a rainy day. ULTIoATE oINI-GoLF Palmerston North’s Ultimate oini-Golf. It even has sand bunkers and water features to challenge little Michael Campbell wannabes. STEAo oUSEUo This important part of our industrial history is preserved for posterity at the Steam ouseum in Tokomaru. TE APITI WINDFARo The largest wind-power generation farm in the Southern Hemisphere creates enough power to light and heat 15,000 homes. The best view of it is from Loop Rd. oANAWATU GoRGE Visitors can jetboat on the river or walk its winding tracks. VICTMRIA ESPLANADE Palmerston North’s historic Victoria Esplanade has cherry trees in bloom in the springtime, cute ducklings and a miniature train ride. SPRING GRoVE FARo PARK For animal lovers big and small. Don’t miss the twin goats and the native owls living at “owlcartraz” in this educational park near Shannon.

Factfile DRIVE Eight hours from Auckland/ two hours from Wellington/seven hours (plus three hours on the ferry) from Christchurch. FLY Air New Zealand and Qantas both have flights from main centres. STAY Himatangi Beach Holiday Park is a stone’s throw from the beach with stylish family chalets, complete with built-in bunkbeds, flatscreen TV and leather sofa. WEB www.manawatunz.co.nz

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