Louise Richardson and family enjoy a mid-week maritime adventure in scenic Northland
Approaching the picturesque Bay of Islands on a bright, chilly spring day with my husband David and our two children, I felt compelled to touch on colonial history – especially since our offspring were enjoying a rare term-time day off school.
“What’s Russell famous for?” I asked.
“Dunno,” mumbled William (10) from the back, with typical pre-teen finesse.
“Russell sprouts?” enquired seven-year-old Issey hopefully.
We drove down the main street of tourist hub Paihia and once parked, headed to the oaritime Building to join a cruise on the “Dolphin Seeker” catamaran. We were soon feeling exhilarated and windblown as we sped across the waves towards the aforementioned settlement of Russell, on the opposite shore.
Further on, the boat ducked around a myriad of pretty little bays and islands, while the kids kept their eyes peeled for signs of local marine life.When the first pod of dolphins came into view, there was huge excitement and William was all for jumping into the sea then and there! once we’d persuaded him to leave that to a couple of intrepid young German tourists in wetsuits, he and Issey settled down with the camera to record the spectacle unfolding on the water. For at least half-an-hour, families of dolphins frolicked and posed, keeping the kids as happy as the proverbial sand boys.
A little later, the famous Hole in the Rock loomed large before us and I gasped as I wondered how our craft could possibly fit through such a small opening. I still don’t know the answer, however, as the captain deemed the sea too choppy to proceed. I don’t mind admitting to a sigh of relief!
Back on dry land, we bought icecreams for sustenance, then proceeded north to Karikari Peninsula and the Carrington Resort. Here, the lights in our luxurious private villa twinkled like welcoming beacons in the pitch-black night and, as soon as we were settled, David hot-footed down it to a local fish ‘n’ chip shop to catch us a meal just minutes before closing time.
We all slept like logs but my fishing-mad husband roused himself early to do some genuine catching with local skipper John Dunn on his 7.5m kevlar catamaran, the Lady Di. Usually a freshwater angler, David was looking forward to reeling in some oceanic inhabitants and the brochure mentioned snapper, kingfish and kawahai – all of which sounded acceptable to me.
After their dad had disappeared, William, Issey and I wandered over to the main Carrington Resort for an utterly splendid breakfast. oine was a to-die-for homemade muesli with macadamias, pecans and all kinds of dried fruit, topped with boysenberries and fresh yoghurt.
The three of us worked off our culinary excesses exploring the resort with its vast grounds, swimming pool, spa and well-appointed golf course. Then, after lunch, the wanderer finally returned – tired but very happy – with a cargo of snapper. It goes without saying that delicious fresh fish was cooked and enjoyed in our villa that evening!
After checking out next morning, we made a pit stop at the Matthews Vintage Collection, a small but fascinating museum just north of Taipa. If the kids thought it was “awesome” – and we’re assured that they did – then David and I were quite simply in nostalgia heaven.
“oy grandparents had a oini this colour… and a Bedford truck just like this one,” he announced, surveying the impressive collection of vintage vehicles.”oh, look, a toll exchange! oy nana worked on one of these in Invercargill in the 1960s,” I told Issey.
Feeling ancient, David and I eventually stepped outside, where the children were enthusiastically running around with the resident sheep and miniature ponies. By now it was time to make tracks, with our smooth trip home to Auckland punctuated by a short stop at Kawakawa, where we admired the vintage train which runs down the town’s main street and, of course, answered nature’s call at the town’s famous Hundertwasser toilets!
**Fact file
**Drive From Auckland, it takes about 3 hours and 20 minutes to drive to the Bay of Islands and 4 to 4½ hours to get to the Karikari Peninsula.Fly Air New Zealand flies regularly to Whangarei, Kerikeri and Kaitaia.Stay Carrington Resort, www.carrington.co.nz. Don’t miss AwesomeNZ dolphin cruises, www.awesomenz.co.nz. Lady Di Fishing Charters, www.fishdoubtlessbay.co.nz.Matthews Vintage Collection, www.matthewsvintage.com.Infowww.northland.co.nz
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