Destinations

Shoes and the city: Malaysia

Steamy, sprawling and a shoe-lover’s paradise, Kuala Lumpur is a metropolis of extremes, where ancient temples sit alongside cutting-edge technology and street vendors squeeze among skyscrapers, spas and malls.

Discarded heels and silk shawls cover the entire floor of my hotel room. I’m in Kuala Lumpur for two days and I didn’t pack light. Only 30 minutes away from meeting two of Malaysia’s most iconic fashion designers I’ve decided to channel my inner Carrie Bradshaw. Wearing my favourite heels (leopard-print with a pointed toe) and with my shoulders covered (abiding to cultural standards), I step out into the scorching KL heat.

“Jeepers, it’s pretty hot,” I say to no one in particular. “It’s winter,” says the lobby boy.

Getting a PHD in shoes\n\nSurrounded by soaring skyscrapers, enormous shopping malls and luxury hotels with mandatory roof pools, bars and tropical palm trees, I have a mere 48 hours to explore this modern jungle, and not a moment to lose. First stop, the Malaysia International Shoe Festival. \n\nIn a large air-conditioned convention centre and in the company of leading Malaysian designers Zang Toi and Jimmy Choo, KL’s Shoe Festival is a fashionable affair. This annual event unites shoppers and shoe retailers and takes place in the city centre. Models strut the catwalk in the latest shoe trends and an artistic display of Jimmy Choo shoes sits proudly in the entranceway. \n\nWith a fully loaded credit card burning through my pocket I peruse the stalls, trying on an array of shoes – from six-inch stilettos and classic ballet flats to winter boots. The only element more exciting than the quantity of shoes is the promise of a bargain. Discounts are mandatory and the New Zealand dollar does well when converted into ringgit (roughly $NZ1 to $MYR2.6).

Daisy meets Malaysian shoe hero Jimmy Choo

After trying on some cute court heels I stumble into a nearby crowd and find myself part of a Q&A with Professor Jimmy Choo (they take fashion very seriously here in Malaysia). Deep in discussion with media about fashion production and tourism, I’m only a few feet away from Mr Choo, and I can’t help but wonder, has he noticed my leopard-print heels? “I’m in Kuala Lumpur for two days; where’s the best place to shop?” I ask.\n\nOn the advice of Jimmy Choo himself, I’m off to the Bukit Bintang district for some retail therapy. Bukit Bintang, considered the go-to KL district, is known for its hustle-bustle vibe and abundance of mega malls, restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Exploring by foot is key. There are hundreds of food vendors, drink carts and small stores that are only visible when roaming at street level. I’m mall bound but deciding on what giant shopping complex to walk into first is enough to give even a savvy city girl a headache. Thankfully there’s an above-ground air-conditioned walkway (open to 10pm daily) that guides you directly to the central shopping district.

The seven-storey Pavilion mall.

Shop Til You Drop

Malaysia has an eclectic assortment of unique stores, which is both good and bad for foreign shoppers. A major plus is fashion variation. You’ll never bump into someone back home wearing the same pair of pumps, that’s for sure. The downside is the pure mass of options can overwhelm. So much time is lost just wandering a level of a mega mall you hardly have time left to actually spend.

Pavilion is the largest mall in the Bukit Bintang district at an impressive seven storeys high. Unsure of what to expect, I’m relieved to find it caters to all price ranges. After a couple of hours I discover while many of the stores look tacky, it’s a serious mistake to judge a shop by its window displays. Glitter and sequins aside, once I give these small boutiques a chance there are many bargains to be found. I leave with two new pairs of shoes, each costing less then $NZ80. I’m on cloud nine.

The street level of Pavilion is bursting at the seams with bars and bistros perfect for a post-shopping refreshment. Only a five-minute walk down Bukit Bintang’s main road (also named Bukit Bintang) I arrive at my second mall, LOT 10. Smaller in scale, the five-storey centre is packed with mainstream favourites including a three-storied Zara and a two-storey H&M. It’s the go-to for middle range shopping and a must-visit if you’re on a budget. Sale day is every day and many of the department stores dedicate entire levels to discounted fashion. More bang for your buck is the motto! I notice styles are slightly more conservative in Malaysia, which works in my favour: the sale sections are brimming with clothing that may be considered ‘unfashionable’ here but are on the mark trend-wise for home. \n\nAfter all this shopping I’m in serious need of nourishment. Luckily LOT 10’s basement level contains 33 eateries, and while dining in a shopping mall sounds anything but glamorous, the array of local delicacies is vast and the air conditioning a delight when faced with the alternative: 30-degree street temperature. I decide the only action more criminal than leaving LOT 10 without a shopping bag is to leave on an empty stomach. \n\nHeading back to my hotel I can’t stop myself popping into Starhill Gallery, a giant multifaceted building of steel and glass that boasts the A-Z of luxury shops. Five out of the seven storeys are underground and although I’m unable to leave Starhill with a new Prada on my arm it’s absolutely worth a visit to window browse the boutiques and observe the diverse range of shoppers.

Murugan guards the entrance to Batu Caves.

From Spas to Shrines\n\nWith aching feet I head to the award-winning Swasana Spa (aka The Spice Pavilion) on the fourth level of the Impiana Hotel. With a selection of Balinese, Thai and Malay massages, Swasana’s menu is both enticing and exotic. Snug in a soft robe and with a ginger tea in hand, I’m given a tray of spices to choose from to inspire the style of my massage. I decide on the small container labelled ‘calm’ to help me unwind after my hectic day’s shopping.\n\nWith 24 hours remaining, I give my bank account a well-deserved rest and trade mall-wandering for cultural exploring. KL’s Batu Caves are home to many Hindu shrines and temples, which attract thousands of visitors – especially during the annual Thaipusam festival when worshippers walk to the caves from the city centre, a staggering 17km procession that in 2014 drew a crowd of more than 800,000 devotees.

A truly celestial sight awaits visitors to Batu Caves and temple.

The cave entrance is guarded by the world’s tallest statue of Murugan, a Hindu deity, which stands proudly at more than 40m high. Walking up the 272 steps to the cave entrance, monkeys big and small leap and swing around us and off the rock walls. While some of the younger monkeys dare to snatch peanuts from tourists’ hands, the larger, more territorial monkeys snap and growl when approached. \n\nThe largest of the three caves, Cathedral, has soaring, jagged ceilings with rocky floors. I watch as Hindu families in white robes worship statues of their gods. At the end of the cave the ceiling opens, making way for the sun that cascades through the rock opening framed with jungle vines and bush.\n\nWith the heat finally relenting, I spend the afternoon exploring the far end of Bukit Bintang, 30 minutes or so from the shopping malls I got to know so well the day before.

Traders Hotel’s SkyBar.

As darkness falls, neon lanterns catch my eye and as I turn off the Jalan Bukit Bintang main road the smell of barbecued meat fills the bustling streets. Jalan Alor Food Street has dozens of streetside restaurants where locals and tourist alike sit at plastic tables and chairs while open grills sizzle with local dishes. There are dozens of to choose from so I dabble in small amounts from an array of restaurants, selecting chicken satay, beef and the occasional cheap and cheerful beer.\n\nWhile the strong culture and heritage of Malaysia is still evident in Kuala Lumpur, it’s the marriage of tradition and modernity that makes it such a fascinating city. The KL skyline is a marvel, especially after dusk, and at 452m high the view from Petronas Twin Towers is breathtaking, even more so with a cocktail in hand. \n\nArriving at Traders Hotel I take the earpopping lift ride to level 33, home of KL’s most famous watering hole Skybar. Sitting poolside in the cushioned alcove, espresso martini in hand, I admire the view while mentally assessing my purchases and my urban adventures. Carrie would be proud.

Locals and tourists alike flock to the Chinatown night market.

What the locals know\n\n1. Don’t be afraid of mall dining. Some of the best restaurants are located in shopping centres purely to avoid the heat. Mango sticky rice and Serunding are spectacular. Try durian – this potent-smelling fruit is adored by Malaysians but has a reputation as a ‘love it or hate it’ local delicacy. In my case, it was a hit.\n2. English is widely spoken; however, that doesn’t give tourists a licence to avoid attempting the native tongue. Try saying please (sila) and thankyou (terima kasih) whenever you get the chance. The grin you receive in return will be well worth it. \n3. Much like many other Asian countries, in Malaysia haggling at local markets is accepted and in most cases expected. My personal rule of thumb is to counter-offer a third of the initial price stated. Don’t be afraid to walk away – chances are the stallholder will come calling after you.\n4. Malaysia isn’t as conservative as you may expect; wandering shopping malls and nearby streets wearing shorts and a singlet is no issue. However, if you’re heading to a temple or official gathering make sure your legs and shoulders are covered. Places such as the Batu Caves allow visitors to hire garments for a few cents.\n5. Unlike our own Sky Tower, you need to book in advance to visit the Petronas Twin Towers. Head to petronastwintowers.com.my for more information.\n\nWords by: Daisy Sillis\nPhotographs by: Getty images and supplied

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