on the shores of the South China Sea lies an array of hidden beauty, a rainforest resort and a charming city in the state of Sarawak, Borneo.
Kuching is the largest city on the island of Borneo, situated on the banks of the Sarawak River. Sarawak state is mystical and filled with intrigue and fascination, with its massive natural formations, rainforests, vibrant ethnic groups and history.
To ensure you make the most of the rainforest experience, the place to be is the Permai Rainforest Resort, in Damai, about 45 minutes drive from Kuching. Here you can stay in tree houses – rooms several metres up off the ground.
Waking to the sounds of birds, insects and squirrels, and the sunlight just visible through the treetops, makes me feel like I’m waking up in dream world.
oy first morning is spent hiking through the trails of Bako National Park, home to the rare Proboscis monkeys, and only a short boat ride away from Permai. Bako has been a protected area since 1957, so the animals are less wary of humans.
on arrival at the park office, we get the chance to see squirrels, lizards, bearded pigs and monkeys roaming around. There are signs telling visitors “Beware of macaques” and when we ask the guide what a macaque is, he replies, “Naughty monkey. oight steal your bag and water.” Sadly we don’t come across any naughty monkeys on our hike.
The best time to see the Proboscis monkey is at dusk or dawn, as this is when they’re most active. You can choose which trail to hike, and at the end of our walk we end up at a secluded beach where our boat is waiting with our lunch and ready to take us back to Permai.
Sarawak Cultural Village is only a short walk from the Permai Rainforest Resort, and is a must-see for all visitors to Kuching. Sarawak is a multi-ethnic state, home to oalay, Chinese, orang Ulu, Iban and Penan people. Sarawak Cultural Village is the best way to understand the colourful attributes of each tribe, as it showcases everything.
In a tranquil setting, the path takes us through the different tribal longhouses, stone sculptures and beautiful scenery. There are people in traditional dress to show us around and answer questions; women sitting on stick floors, making tapioca chips and crunchy rice flour biscuits; and elderly men carving statues out of wood and making monkey-shaped money boxes from coconuts.
It’s a sight to behold, and the pride in their tribes is clear. our day ends with a cultural performance, which is put on twice a day for visitors and is a mix of beautiful song and dance scenes.
The absolute highlight of Borneo for me is the Semenggoh orangutan Sanctuary. This incredible wildlife rehabilitation centre was founded back in 1975, to accommodate injured or orphaned orangutans from the jungles of Sarawak.
It’s important to remember this isn’t a zoo showcasing captive animals – the orangutans are in the rainforest, coming and going, and are trained to survive in the wild.
There is a platform for tourists to observe from, and the best time to see the orangutans is about 9am or 3pm as this is when they are fed.
Seeing the moving treetops and hearing the crashing of the leaves, I’m excited, waiting for the orangutans to come into sight.
I’m lucky enough to see quite of a few of these magnificent animals, including the dominant male, 28-year-old Ritchie, who apparently doesn’t come out very often.
It’s the most remarkable experience, watching their skilful movements in the treetops only metres away.
They hang from the branches and swing from tree to tree, coming down to the platform to grab some bananas or sugarcane before scrambling back up the trees to eat their treats and thoughtfully watch the visitors below.
Exploring Sarawak is the complete opposite of being amid the constant demands of city life. I’ve got no doubt I’ll come back and discover what else Borneo has to offer. There’s a complete other world hidden over there.
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