Destinations

5 reasons to love Akaroa

Ooh la la! Associate Editor Sebastian van der Zwan discovers this French thrill

Just over an hour’s drive from Christchurch, this former French settlement on Bank’s Peninsula is still full of Gallic flavour, but it’s Akaroa’s incredible scenery and adorable wildlife that had me saying, “C’est magnifique!”

1. Natural beauty

The name Akaroa means “long harbour” in the Kai Tahu dialect – and that stunning, turquoise-coloured waterway, sheltered within the remains of an ancient volcano, is the main attraction here. Up in the hills behind the town, I hiked the easy 1.5km Otepatotu Scenic Reserve track, through lush native bush buzzing with birds, to scenic peaks with a stunning panoramic vista over the harbour. Closer to the water is the must-do loop track around the Onawe Pa Historic Reserve, a volcanic plug that’s become a narrow peninsula jutting out into sea, providing 360-degree aquatic views.

2. Fin-tastic!

Even better than looking at the harbour is getting out onto it – or into it! I opted to do both with family-owned dolphin-swimming company EcoSeaker. Clad in wetsuits, a small group of wildlife lovers and I were bundled into an inflatable boat by an expert guide to look for the distinctive curved dorsal fins of Hector’s dolphins, which are endangered but easy to spot out here. Once we found a friendly-looking pod, we jumped into the water nearby and the curious creatures soon swam alongside us for a close-up squizz. Such a thrill! We also saw seal pups and seabirds amid spectacular rock formations, which made for an unmissable excursion.

3. Big fun

The Giant’s House is a gorgeous terraced garden filled with flamboyant flora, fabulous mosaics and tiled sculptures – it’s a feast for the senses. Resident artist Josie Martin’s masterpieces are reminiscent of Antoni Gaudi’s architecture in Barcelona, while the Edith Piaf music piped throughout the place added to the feeling of being transported to Europe. I’m not much of a botanist, but the artworks are so incredible, I’m going to chalk this up as another must-see.

4. Oar-some!

Having whetted my taste for wildlife with the dolphins, I then took a sea-kayaking trip through a colony of white-flippered penguins, a rare subspecies of the korora or little blue penguin commonly found around the country. Alas, as it was outside the season, I saw only two of the sweet little seabirds, but the scenery and the dozens of seals doing underwater acrobatics all around my canoe more than made up for it. Pohatu Penguins runs a professional and informative eco-friendly tour, and my funny French tour guide added an authentic element of je ne sais quoi.

5. Bon appétit!

It’s not a real taste of France without some suitably Gallic gastronomic delights and though my budget didn’t extend to fine dining, I can highly recommend the fromage at Barrys Bay Cheese, where you can watch cheesemakers at work. It’s not really French, but I recommend the aged gouda. I’d also give my greedy-guts seal of approval to the tapas at the Harbar seaside bar, the rosé from French Peak Wines and the Akaroa salmon at The Brasserie. Also be sure to check out the incredible view at The Hilltop Tavern on the way into town. Sacré bleu!

Related stories