Gardens are deemed a sanctuary of natural beauty – a place to be at one with nature and bask in the feel-good vibes emanating from within. It’s ironic then, that most gardens are completely contrived. In fact, some of the most interesting gardens I’ve been to go beyond contrived!
They’re the ones studded with plants manipulated into strong geometric, totally unnatural shapes. It is, of course, topiary, an age-old art and very clever design element.**
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Why use topiary?
The boldly artificial shapes of topiary inject wonderful contrasts of form into a garden. Topiary punctuates the more relaxed forms of surrounding vegetation, providing strong structural qualities together with hedging and other solid planting. And although famous for its use in the grand, formal gardens of Europe, topiary also has its place in the smallest of gardens.
Well-placed specimens can transform an entire scene, but be wary of overuse. Too many of these dominant shapes in a small space will water down the desired effect, resulting in a slightly chaotic outcome. Strategically placed, well-styled topiaries not only add flair and elegance, they can be used in practical ways as well. Use them to frame a vista, form a focal point, flank an entranceway, denote steps, or form an avenue in a larger garden. Upright forms are useful to mimic the vertical lines of a building and round forms help soften harsh architectural lines.
Geometric shapes produce the best effect but gardeners with a sense of humour can have a lot of fun creating all sorts of whimsical forms!**
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What makes good topiary?
The best topiary plants are those that are evergreen, slow growing with pliable branches, have small, close-knit foliage and recover quickly after trimming – especially if you happen to slip with the pruning shears! A strong single stem is essential where a stemmed ball or spiral shape is required. Box is the most common topiary plant (along with yew in Europe).
Suitable contenders among our native plants include totara and fine-leafed species of corokia, hebe, olearia, pittosporum and kowhai. Larger-leafed plants are easily clipped into stemmed balls, but best shaped by cutting individual branches with secateurs, as hedge shears produce a “chomped” effect on large leaves.
Edible topiary
Edible gardens can also be embellished with stylish topiary. Smaller-growing citrus (mandarins, limes and lemons), feijoas, strawberry guavas and olives can all be trimmed into stemmed balls.
Recently released dwarf apple ‘Blush Babe’, plus dwarf nectarines, peaches and apricots all grow naturally into a mop-head shape, making them perfect “no-trim” topiaries. Chilean guava, gooseberries and currants can also be trained into topiary, as can rosemary and lavender in the herb garden.
Pick your shape
Stemmed Ball (AKA standard or lollipop) is the most common shape, comprising a sphere of leaves sitting atop a tall stem.
Cone is the most natural of traditional topiary shapes and very easy to maintain.
Étagère or “staged” form consists of a conical base topped with a ball (stage), but may have a pyramidal base or triangular stages. More stages are added as the plant grows.
Pyramid is a conical shape, flattened off to form four faces.
Spiral is visually striking but difficult and time-consuming to master.
Dome is grown as a free-standing specimen close to the ground. Several of our native hebes grow naturally into a tight dome.
Ball is a simple and effective shape for softening hard landscaping and creating interest among dense ground covers.
Cube is possibly the most unnatural shape and therefore outstanding in the garden, but tricky to get right.
Topiary tip
A topiary growing in a container needs to be in proportion to the size of the container. For example, a ball-shaped topiary should be not be larger in diameter than the pot it’s growing in.
oy favourite topiary plants
Camellia ‘Setsugekka’
Corokia ‘Cappuccino’
Golden totara
Kowhai (Sophora ‘Dragon’s Gold’)
Port Wine oagnolia (oichelia figo)
Silver Germander (Teucrium fruticans)
Australian frangipani Fruiting
Chilean guava
oandarin ‘Thorny’
Feijoas
Caring for topiaries
Clip as frequently as is required – fast-growing plants (such as box honeysuckle) may require fortnightly clipping over summer, others only two or three times a year. Feed with fertiliser in early spring and mid-summer, and water consistently.
It’s time to…
- Spray frosted plants with water, before the sun reaches them, to minimise frost damage.
- Spray deciduous plants with copper oxychloride and spraying oil.
- Pinch spent or diseased flowers off winter annuals and spray with fungicide if necessary.
- Plant dahlia and begonia tubers (wait until spring in cold areas or plant in pots).
- Spray liquid seaweed on veges to boost growth and immune systems.
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