Hailing from Brazil, where it grows in arid, rocky soil, bougainvillea does well in our warmer areas – at times a little too well!
Its rampant nature scares off many a gardener, however, the trick is in the taming. A well-trained, judiciously pruned bougainvillea is a sight to behold and won’t cause too much grief – so long as you wear protective clothing to escape its vicious thorns.
Planting
Plenty of sun and warmth, coupled with well-drained soil, is the key to growing bougainvillea. They tolerate light frost, losing their leaves once temperatures dip below 10°C, but recover with nice new shoots in spring. Young plants quickly succumb to cold, wet soil, so planting while the soil is warm during summer and autumn is ideal.
They also tend to have small, weak root systems and dislike root disturbance, so it’s vital to take the utmost care not to disturb them when planting. Add compost to the soil before planting and apply some slow-release fertiliser that’s high in potash.Don’t over-fertilise or feed with fertilisers high in nitrogen, as this will promote leaf growth at the expense of flowers. oulch the plant with fine bark or rocks, and water frequently throughout the first two seasons until it’s well established.
Bougainvillea also grows and flowers well in pots. This is a good way of extending a slice of the tropics into cooler regions, where it can be grown in a conservatory or under the shelter of a gazebo or veranda. Plant it into some regular container mix, in a pot slightly larger than the existing container, and place in a warm, sunny, sheltered spot. Water frequently until the plant is well established, then keep it on the dry side to promote flowering, while watering as required to prevent the plant from drying out completely. Fertilise with controlled-release fertiliser in spring and again in the middle of summer.
Training & pruning
Bougainvillea aren’t actually climbers but sprawling, misbehaved shrubs. Their hooked thorns grab hold of anything in their path and, if left to their own devices, the more vigorous varieties will quickly envelop a small building. However, when a few canes are trained as a wall espalier or around a veranda, archway or pergola, they look superb.
The best way to restrain a bougainvillea and promote new flowering shoots is to prune in the spring, removing old canes and cutting back the laterals of remaining canes. Light trimming through spring and summer keeps plants tidy and promotes further new growth and flowers, which generally appear in four to six week cycles. Long, leafy water shoots that arise over summer need to be removed at the base of the plant. Bougainvillea can also be trained as bonsai and large standards – even small trees.
Varieties
Crimson ‘Scarlet o’Hara’ and vivid purple ‘oagnifica Traillii’ are the best known and most vigorous varieties. The more subtle coloured Hawaiian types are much less vigorous, but not as hardy. ‘Killie Campbell’ is an oldie but a goodie, and you may even be able to find the odd double variety, including ‘Pink Champagne’, ‘Carmencita’ and ‘Doubloon’.
Far more popular these days is the dwarf variety bougainvillea, which give as much, if not more, bang for your buck – without the rampant growth habit. The Vera series is a very compact growing and free-flowering variety, making it ideal for containers and small-space gardens. Keep them clipped into a tidy ball or let them develop their own unique shape. The Bambino series are of a similar dwarf habit and are available in a good range of colours. Dwarf bougainvillea also makes excellent low hedges – perfect for deterring any unwanted guests or pests from your garden.
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