Getting the look of the party season can be fraught with difficulty. In a bid to turn runway into real way, we can often end up with our hair in a tizz and eye make-up that looks more like a morning-after mascara smudge than a glamorous catwalk creation. However, this year you can relax – because the trends are all about achieving more from less.
If the smoky eye is your preferred after-hours look, the key this summer is playing it down, with emphasis on eyeliner and the top lid, rather than taking the eyeshadow and colour around the whole eye. According to Jenna Broadbent, make-up artist for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, this is largely due to the resurgence of the bolder brow. “It has meant the smoky eye has moved from the heavy layer it once was to a more subtle style, with a touch of sheen and eyeliner becoming more pronounced,” she says.
She points out this new approach is ideal for women aged 40-plus, because as we age the eyelid tires and becomes smaller, and adding a heavy, dark eyeshadow emphasises this.
If your party look sways more towards a bright lip, then forget red! Summer is showcasing a fun, fresh array of bright, raspberry pinks with blue undertones or touches of coral. “It’s still a bright, beautiful lip we love,” says Jenna, “but the pinks are summery and fresh, rather than the deep plum or red of the past.” Coral shades, she adds, work well with a taupe or golden smoky eye.
As for luscious locks, boho curls are still popular, but instead of a messy ‘just got out of bed’ style, the evening look is more sleek and sophisticated. Which is good news, says Talei Lepper, senior stylist at Auckland’s Snow by Samantha Snow salon, because it flatters both short and long hair, thick or thin. “With the right tools and a bit of practice you can achieve this look easily,” she says.
When it comes to the finishing touch, you can dress up any outfit by colouring nails. This is definitely the season to focus on your digits, says Cheryl Cooke, OPI nail artist. Choose shades from pastels through to shimmery purples. “The trend is towards a little shimmer and shine,” Cheryl explains.
We asked our experts to lead us step-by-step through what it takes to achieve this season’s best festive looks.
Bright, bold lips
Step 1: “It’s important to prep your lips first, by using a balm to hydrate and plump,” says make-up artist Jenna Broadbent.
Step 2: Many believe the next step is lip liner, but for a more natural finish, apply lipstick now, then transition to liner. “By applying the lipstick first, you get the true pigment and a more natural look,” says Jenna, warning that putting on liner first can cause a harsh line, which becomes more pronounced as lipstick fades. A bright lip colour should be applied subtly at first, and only built up if needed. Using a brush ensures application is precise and prevents smudging – particularly important if opting for a bright, bold shade.
Step 3: Apply the lip liner. “Don’t just outline the whole lip – fill in the lips as much as possible,” says Jenna. This combined with the lip balm means any fading is less distinct.
TIP: Balance a bright lip with a blush in the same hue. “This way you avoid looking washed out,” advises Jenna.
Subtle smoky eyes
Step 1: Apply a cream shadow with a soft shimmer to the top lid as a base. “Avoid too much sparkle – just a hint is enough to give subtle glam,” advises Jenna. Apply it up to the crease, but no higher. Take a soft, deeper shade from midway across the lower part of the lid and blend it out to the corner of the eye and about halfway up towards the crease. For more shimmer, press a little sparkle shadow gently all over, up to the crease.
Step 2: Now add eyeliner. Jenna suggests using a black gel eyeliner, particularly if you are less confident in the application. “A gel-based liner blends more easily and softens a smoky eye – whereas a pencil can cause harsh, uneven lines,” she says. Start application midway along the eye, “then take it to the outer corner of the eye before coming back in, going all the way to the inner corner.”
Step 3: Wait for the liner to dry a little, then blend a darker shadow on top of the lash line. “The smokier you want to go, the higher you want to bring it,” says Jenna. “On our model I brought this look to about a quarter of the way up the eye, as she has big beautiful eyes that I didn’t want to close up.” The higher you go, the smaller the eye appears. Those with smaller eyes should also avoid too much black or charcoal – try taupes a=nd browns instead.
Step 4: Apply lashings of mascara. “Two to three coats – and always curl your lashes,” says Jenna.
The glam wave
Step 1: Start with clean, dry hair. Spritz with either a volume spray or foam for more body, or a heat protector to reduce damage.
Step 2: According to stylist Talei Lepper, the key to this look is dividing the hair into horizontal sections and alternating the direction of the curl in each section. She explains that your first section will be a line from the bottom of your ear across the nape of your neck to the other ear. Tie up the hair above this line to keep it out of the way. Take a piece of hair about 2-3cm wide and wrap it around the curling tong. Keep the ends of hair between fingers and hold until hair is hot. Do not wrap the end of the hair in the curling tong. Repeat until section is curled.
Step 3: The second section will be from the top of the ear across. “Curl as before, but in the opposite direction,” says Talei. If you started on the left side in step 2, start from the right in step 3, and whichever side, curl away from your face. The third section is from top of the ear up to the temple. Again, curl in the opposite direction from the previous section.
Step 4: Depending on your preferred style, you can create this look with either a side or middle part. We opted for a glamorous side part for an evening look; choose a more loose middle part for a daytime event. Section the front in your preferred style and repeat curling.
Step 5: Let hair cool for 5 minutes, which allows curls to set. Using a cushion brush, brush out curls to create a more polished wave. If you’re wanting a looser style, break up with your fingers. Spray lightly with anti-humidity spray and finish off by tucking hair behind one ear, flicking it over your shoulder.
Show-stopper sequin nails
Step 1: File nails with a medium grit file into desired shape, being careful to file in one direction, so as not to damage or split the nail. Cleanse with a polish remover to get rid of any oil.
Step 2: Apply a base coat – this prevents yellowing of nails and increases the longevity of your polish.
Step 3: Pick out your colour – we opted for a fresh, summery pastel shade. Nail artist Cheryl Cooke suggests wiping polish from one side of the brush as you lift from the bottle, “as this will prevent too much polish flooding the cuticle and also makes it easier to control the polish on the nail.” Using long, slow strokes, apply, holding the brush almost flat to the nail to ensure a smooth finish. Allow polish to dry, then repeat.
Step 4: To add the glitter ‘fade’, apply a small amount of glitter polish onto your brush. You are then aiming to ‘feather’ the glitter onto the nail – technique is crucial here. “For this look, you should apply from tip to middle of fingernail, don’t go past the middle of your nail,” advises Cheryl. Allow to dry. Intensify the glitter with a second coat. Finish with a top coat to smooth the nail and create shine for a longer lasting manicure.